Collagen supplements are everywhere, splashed across social media, championed by celebrities and hyped by TikTok influencers. But a comprehensive meta-analysis of leading scientific studies on collagen and skin ageing tells a very different story: collagen supplements don’t actually work.
That’s right. When you look at the fundamental biology and the independent research, the evidence simply isn’t there. So why are so many brands insisting their collagen is 'proven' or touting 'world-first' formulas?
The real reason collagen supplements don’t live up to the hype comes down to how the body works. Expert nutritionist Ella Kaur breaks down the science.
Collagen is a protein structure made from amino acids and is the main structural elastic component in our skin. As we age, our bodies produce less collagen, and it is this decrease in collagen that leads to the emergence of wrinkling, sagging and fragility of the skin.
Collagen is naturally produced from three amino acids - glycine, proline and arginine - and lysine, copper, zinc, iron, sulphur and manganese. These nutrients are found naturally in a healthy diet which includes good levels of protein. Once amino acids are absorbed in the stomach and small intestine, they’re used to help the body create collagen alongside other nutrients in the blood vessels, bones, gums, joints, ligaments and skin, where it provides structure and flexibility.
Some animal food products contain collagen, and animal-based collagen supplements are referred to as ‘bovine collagen’, sourced from boiling and drying animal bones, hides, ligaments and joints. Continue learning about collagen.
The reason collagen supplements don’t work is down to basic biology - only your own body can produce collagen. Whichever way you consume nutrients that produce collagen, or collagen itself from animals, or collagen supplements, all sources are broken down into individual amino acids by gastric acid and enzymes such as pepsin in the stomach, and trypsin in the small intestine. This process produces amino acids and dipeptides and tripeptides, which are short chains of amino acids, which are then absorbed across the intestinal wall and used across the body.
Collagen supplements are broken down by the body before your body can use any of the nutrients and amino acids for collagen production.
Amino acids on their own don’t create collagen and vegan collagen supplements, which contain only amino acids, don’t provide the nutrients your body needs to reproduce collagen. Other cofactors are required for your body to produce collagen, including vitamin C, zinc, copper and manganese.
They don’t provide all the nutrients your body needs for healthier skin. When it comes to wanting healthy, glowing skin, you need other nutrients as well as the collagen your body produces, including hyaluronic acid and CoQ10 (coenzyme Q10).
A high-protein diet or supplement which is full of amino acids is probably more likely to benefit your body’s collagen production and skin than any collagen supplement. And there is no such thing as vegan collagen, despite what collagen brands may tell you.
Most people take a collagen supplement, thinking the collagen is incorporated directly into their skin, bones and other connective tissues. However, the biology of protein digestion does not work like that. Collagen supplements are broken down into individual amino acids which are then used in the body where they are needed.
There is a lot of clever marketing around collagen supplements, with phrases like ‘clinically proven’ or ‘backed by science’. People are reassured by celebrities that promise younger-looking skin and because something has been researched. What most people don’t realise is that those research studies are produced by the collagen brands and manufacturers themselves and are of very low quality.
A meta-analysis of all major studies looking at collagen supplementation found that only poor-quality studies produced by the collagen supplement manufacturers tried to claim a benefit to taking collagen supplementation, while high-quality studies showed NO benefit of collagen supplements. You can read the research here.
When evaluating any research into collagen - or any other supplement - we need to ask lots of questions, in particular, who funded the research, was there a placebo, was it a double-blind randomised control trial where each group didn’t know if they were taking the placebo or control, and were participants using skin creams or making changes in diet alongside taking a collagen supplement?
For example, poor-quality studies won’t test their products on people exclusively using collagen and not using any other vitamin, mineral and skin supplements, or skin creams, at the same time. This means they can’t tell what led to any improvement. Neither will they test their product alongside a placebo in a double-blind randomised controlled trial. High-quality studies will do so and address these and many more factors that can affect results, and a meta-analysis of all high-quality studies shows collagen supplements don’t work.
All proteins, including collagen, are first broken down into amino acids before they can be reused by your body. Simply consuming more protein or taking a protein supplement, which contains a full profile of amino acids, can be just as effective as any collagen supplement.
There are many nutrients that are needed by the skin for the creation of collagen. These include the amino acids - glycine, proline and arginine, lysine as well as copper, zinc, iron, sulphur and manganese. Increasing your intake of protein will naturally increase your intake of amino acids, which will be used to make collagen. A high-quality skin health supplement will contain the building blocks of collagen and the co-factors needed for its creation and importantly, will also help protect existing collagen from oxidative damage to maintain skin integrity.
The following key nutrients have been shown to be effective for skin health, independent of protein.
Hyaluronic acid is a compound that holds multiple times its own weight in water. It is naturally found in the skin, but levels can decrease with ageing, leading to dull and dry skin. In a placebo-controlled, randomised, double-blind trial of daily hyaluronic acid supplementation for 12 weeks in men and women aged 35-64 years wrinkles, stratum corneum water content, the amount of transepidermal water loss and elasticity were assessed. The study found that after 12 weeks, skin condition was significantly improved in terms of wrinkle assessment, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss and elasticity in the hyaluronic acid group versus the placebo group. The study concluded the hyaluronic acid supplementation may suppress wrinkles and improve skin condition.
High-quality studies such as this meta-analysis, which looked at 31 controlled trials, show that vitamin C has a significant effect on protecting the skin from phytoageing. Vitamin C is a powerful protector of skin and collagen oxidation. Oxidative stress plays a huge role in the dull appearance of skin and in collagen degradation. Oxidative damage from the sun is well-known in the beauty community. Unfortunately, vitamin C being a protector from damage from the sun is less well-known. Vitamin C is also needed for the hydroxylation of collagen which helps to keep youthful-looking skin.
Taking probiotics orally is beneficial for the skin. There is a close connection between the skin and the gut, called the gut-skin axis, and the health of the gut is directly reflected on the skin. A systematic review and meta-analysis concluded that taking probiotics reduced MMPs, which are enzymes that break down collagen and contribute to skin ageing. Probiotics also reversed UV-related skin damage in several ways by regulating the skin's thickness after sun exposure and improved the skin-barrier function, reduced water loss from the skin and reduced UV-related skin dryness.
Bilberry is incredibly antioxidant, and there is strong evidence to suggest it is beneficial for the skin. Researchers tested fermented bilberry extract in 66 people with wrinkles, mild skin sagging and uneven skin tone. Participants took either FBE or a placebo for 84 days. Skin changes were tracked using measurements, dermatologist assessments and participant questionnaires. After 84 days, those taking FBE showed 10.6% fewer wrinkles, smoother skin (7.9% improvement), less roughness (7.3% decrease), firmer skin (13.3% improvement), better elasticity (12.4% improvement), stronger antioxidant protection (20.8% increase), more even skin tone (20.8% improvement), less redness (16.8% decrease) and brighter skin (2.2% lighter).
As collagen has been shown in high-quality studies to not make a difference to skin health, it makes sense to focus your efforts on increasing protein intake and using therapeutic ingredients that do work, such as vitamin C, probiotics, hyaluronic acid and bilberry.
View our range of award-winning probiotics, vitamins and supplements.
You may also enjoy reading:
Your shopping basket is empty. Need some help?
Our Virtual Nutritionist is here to assist you.
Subtotal
£0.00
Shipping and taxes calculated at checkout.
